Sole Collector Turns 23, So We Opened the 10th Anniversary Issue

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You can tell how long a magazine has been in the house by how it sits on a table. The Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue has been opened enough that it wants to stay open, and the cover has gone soft at the corners the way gloss stock does once enough hands have been on it.

Thirteen years ago this was the new one. The tenth anniversary issue. Ten years of Sole Collector gathered into one object you could carry around.

The cover of the Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue from 2013, a black and white photo collage of athletes, designers and sneakers under the SOLE COLLECTOR masthead with an anniversary badge in the corner.
The 10th anniversary issue, 2013. Ten years pulled into one cover.

Now it is the thing being looked back at. That is how this goes.

The Premier Issue, October 2003

Twenty-three Octobers ago there was a first one.

The Sole Collector premier issue cover dated October 2003, reprinted inside the 10th anniversary issue as part of the Top Ten Covers feature, with cover lines reading Smoke Out, Showcase, Flipped and Tagging Nike.
The premier issue, October 2003, reprinted inside the anniversary issue.

October 2003, printed right there on the cover. The Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue reran it in a Top Ten Covers feature, and the column next to it is better than the cover. They needed somebody for the shoot, they found a part-time model who was bartending nearby, and by the account printed on that page nobody involved was entirely sure what they were doing yet. That is the actual beginning. Not a plan. A borrowed model, a wall, and a pair of shoes.

Look at the cover lines. Smoke Out, on fake Jordan XIs. Showcase. Flipped, on Air Max 95s. Tagging Nike, a Stash interview. Hand that to somebody who came up in the last ten years and they will tell you it looks like a different hobby.

Ten Years In: What the Sole Collector 10th Anniversary Issue Covered

Ten years later the covers looked like this.

Michael Jordan and Tinker Hatfield photographed together for a Sole Collector cover, reprinted in the 10th anniversary issue with the Air Jordan 23 in the foreground.
Michael Jordan and Tinker Hatfield, one of the Top Ten Covers.

Same magazine. Same staff, more or less. The distance between the bartender on the wall and the two of them in a studio together is the whole story of that decade, and it happened fast enough that a lot of us did not notice it happening.

Complex ran a companion series called Sole Decade at the same time, including a behind the scenes piece on Issue 7 and the Jordan XX that put the magazine on the map. Worth reading next to this one.

The Shoes That Carried The Name

Then there are the shoes with the SC name on them.

The Collaborations chapter opener in the Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue, showing collaboration samples piled together including an And 1 model, a purple Nike Foamposite and a teal trainer, some still carrying factory sample tags.
The collaborations opener, built from samples. One of them still has its trial tag on it.

The collaborations run in the Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue opens on samples, not retail pairs. If you look at the tag hanging off the middle of it you can read a date and a trial number, which is the kind of thing that never makes it into a product photo on purpose.

The Sole Collector x Nike Air Max 180 Cowboy in black snakeskin with a pink Swoosh, photographed above a fanned row of Sole Collector back issues.
The Air Max 180 Cowboy. The issue says 180 pairs. The shoe says 140.

The 180 Cowboy is the one people still ask about. The interview in the issue puts the run at 180 pairs, and the person saying it hedges with I think. The shoe disagrees. Nick has number 128 of 140, and that same interview says they were numbered on the back, so the real count has been sitting on the heel this whole time.

Which leaves forty pairs to explain. Maybe the production run was 140 and another forty went out as friends and family, which would make both numbers true and neither of them wrong. Maybe it was a figure somebody pulled off the top of their head in 2013 that has been the public number ever since. The person being quoted is Retrokid, so there is an obvious way to settle it. Maybe it is time for a Retrokid interview. What do you think?

The Nike Zoom Rookie LWP in blue and white on the left page, beside a stack of wooden Penny Crate shipping boxes stamped with the 1Cent logo and the Sole Collector S.
The Zoom Rookie LWP and the Penny Crate, stamped with the 1Cent logo and the S.
The Sole Collector x Nike Zoom Revis in volt, grey and black, photographed for the collaborations section of the 10th anniversary issue.
The Zoom Revis, released through the magazine and gone in about twenty seconds.

The Revis went out through the iPad issue, and by the account in the magazine it sold out inside twenty seconds without the site falling over, which at the time was the more surprising half of that sentence. There is a full run of the collaborations in the archive now if you want to go through them.

The Sole Collector x Nike Zoom Flight Club in purple on the left page beside the Nike Air Max Trainer 1 in teal and volt on the right, from the 10th anniversary issue.
The Zoom Flight Club on the left, the Air Trainer feature on the right.
The green Athletic Propulsion Labs concept on the left page beside the grey Pony Friends and Family Special Blend on the right, both Sole Collector collaborations, each photographed over a grid of back issues.
The Athletic Propulsion Labs concept and the Pony Special Blend, both shot over the back catalog.

The Features, and the Access Behind Them

The features are where the access shows.

Kanye West working on the Air Yeezy with members of the Nike design team around a laptop in a living room, photographed for the anniversary issue design feature.
Kanye West and the Nike design team working on the Air Yeezy.

A laptop, a couch, a living room. The Yeezy story in that issue runs on people talking about sample trips and secrecy and arguing over an elephant print, and the photo is somebody sitting on a couch. Nothing about it looks like a launch.

A pile of Nike Hyperdunks photographed for the 10th anniversary issue, with the McFly colorway sitting on top of the stack.
The Hyperdunk feature, with the McFly pair on top of the pile.
The Nike KD 4 Nerf photographed at number nine in the anniversary issue countdown, with a worn denim high top resting on the facing page holding the magazine open.
The KD 4 Nerf at number nine, with somebody holding the page open.

That is a shoe resting on the left page. Whoever shot it needed the spread to stay flat and used what was on their foot. Small thing, but it tells you what kind of operation this was.

The China Covers spread in the 10th anniversary issue, a grid of covers from the China edition of Sole Collector, with a handwritten signature in the outside margin.
The China covers, collected in the back of the issue.

A whole edition in another country, and a signature written in the margin by somebody who was there. That spread also carries a typo in the first line that made it all the way to print, which is the most reassuring detail in the entire magazine.

Sole Shots, and the People Who Sent Them In

And then there is the section that actually explains why any of it worked.

The Sole Shots reader photo section in the 10th anniversary issue, showing a line of groomsmen in tuxedos and sneakers, a newborn in a Jordan beanie and booties, and a couple at a wedding wearing Concord 11s.
Sole Shots. Groomsmen in sneakers, a newborn in Jordan booties, Concord 11s at a wedding.

Nothing else in the Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue does what this page does. A line of guys in tuxedos with their shoes out. A baby asleep in a Jordan beanie. A couple at a wedding, her in a sari, him in Concords. Somebody in the UK. None of those were assignments. People sent them in because the magazine felt like it belonged to them, and it did.

That is the part that does not survive on its own. The shoes on those pages are documented forever. The covers are scanned and reposted every year. The people who mailed in a photo of their wedding shoes are not written down anywhere, and neither is the person who drove two hours to the shop that carried the magazine, or the one who kept every issue in order on a shelf and still has them.

Ten years in, the Sole Collector 10th anniversary issue was the magazine looking back at itself. Thirteen years after that, it is the artifact. We are running Day Ones now for the same reason somebody put together Sole Shots. The shoes are covered. The people are the gap.

So here is what we actually want to know. What is the first issue you remember holding, where did you get it, and is it still in your house somewhere?

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